Icons, Iconoclasm, and Innovation

IAC’s 15th Annual New York Fashion Conference
December 6 – 7, 2013

The Graduate Center, The City University of New York

In every domain there is that which is truly exceptional, standing head and shoulders above the rest. This, the extraordinary, was the subject of the 2013 New York Fashion Conference. In the conference, we considered iconic individuals and, at the same time, the iconoclasts, those who refuse to be governed by received wisdom, prevailing taste, or custom and who, in their successful commitment to the new and different, can themselves become iconic. Artisanry and artisans figured prominently in our discussion, since true excellence in any applied art draws invariably from the creative and skillful fusion of art, technique, and precision. The fusion of art and precision is epitomized by exceptional timepieces. We also look at materials, both at new ways of using the old and at how novel materials have transformed fashion. Among these materials, we considered stones, precious metals, and traditional textiles. Color was also an important focus, and we explored it not only from the perspective of the object, how a given color places an object or speaks for it, but how the choice of color reflects on and expresses the artistic vision of the maker. Last, we addressed how fashion photography and film convey to us the objects they capture and, at the same, time, how they reflect and embody the conventions of a particular era and speak to the sensibility of the photographer or filmmaker. We never lost sight of the question: what makes something “extraordinary” and address the paradox that sometimes that which most distinctive and valuable is not the most costly. The Lena and Louis Minkoff Foundation and Glasgow Caledonian University are gratefully acknowledged for their generosity. We are deeply appreciative of the generous support from Bulgari. We also express our sincere thanks to The Kay Unger Family Foundation, Platinum Guild International, Project Gravitas, Scottish Development International, Wempe, and to anonymous donors for their financial support, as well as to Fifth and Pacific for matching funds. We are deeply grateful to Holland & Sherry, MYB Textiles, Alex Begg & Company, Kara Ross LLC, and Leslie Hindman Auctioneers for their support.

Program agenda

Friday, December 6, 2013

8:30 – 9:15 a.m. Registration and continental breakfast
9:15 – 9:25 a.m. Introduction. Lisa Koenigsberg (President / Founder, Initiatives in Art and Culture)
9.30 – 10:10 a.m. Hilarious to Historic: The Asylum – 40 Years in Fashion. Simon Doonan (creative ambassador − Barneys New York, and writer, bon-vivant, window dresser, fashion commentator)
10:15 – 11:00 a.m. Charles James: Fashion’s Iconoclastic Visionary. Jan Glier Reeder (consulting curator for the Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at the Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art)
11:00 – 11:30 a.m. Break and book signings
11:30 a.m. – 12:15 p.m. Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert – The State of the Art. On the occasion of its 20th anniversary, a discussion of the inside story of how this now iconic scent which launched Bulgari Parfums came to be. Chandler Burr (journalist, author, and curator of olfactory art) and Veronica Bulgari (oversees special projects for Bulgari)
12:15 – 1:30 p.m. Lunch (on your own) and book signings
1:30 – 2:10 p.m. Extraordinary Metal: Platinum Past and Present. Jack Ogden (leading expert on jewelry history and a jewelry industry consultant)
2:15 – 2:45 p.m. White Light: Contemporary Platinum, a Panel Discussion. Deirdre Featherstone (jeweler and founder, Featherstone Design); Maeve Gillies (jeweler and designer);  Patricia Gumuchian (principal designer for Gumuchian); Jack Ogden (leading expert on jewelry history and a jewelry industry consultant), moderator
2:45 – 3:15 p.m. Break and book signings
3:15 – 4:15 p.m. Perfect Timing: Masterpieces of Contemporary Horology. Ruediger Albers (president and general manager WEMPE, US); Maximilian Büsser (founder MB&F) Efraim Grinberg (chairman and CEO, Movado Group, Inc. [MGI]); Ulrich Wohn (president and CEO, TAG Heuer North America and LVMH Watch & Jewelry, North America); Roberta Naas (award-winning journalist in the watch industry with nearly 30 years experience), moderator
4:15 – 5:00 p.m. The Main Event: Icons, Iconoclasm, and Innovation in Fashion and Accessories Design. Kathryn Fortunato (co-founder and director of sales and operations, Lizzie Fortunato Jewels); Brooke Jaffe (operating vice president of fashion direction for women’s ready-to-wear, Bloomingdale’s); Selima Salaun (collector of vintage accessories and eyewear designer); Robert Verdi (lifestyle expert, celebrity stylist, and television personality); Frank Zambrelli (accessories designer), moderator

Saturday, December 7, 2013

9:00 – 9:45 a.m. Continental breakfast and book signing
9:45 – 10:30 a.m. Iconic Photography: Lee Alexander McQueen Through the Eye of Anne Deniau 1997 – 2010. Anne Deniau (artist who has been an international presence in film and photography since 1996) in conversation with Nancy Hall-Duncan (curator, writer, and director of Insight On Art)
10:35 – 11:30 a.m. Sensational, Sustainable Scotland, a Panel
Discussion Celebrating Scottish Textiles.
Malcolm Campbell (textile designer and weave); John Glen (sales director, Alex Begg & Company, which he joined in 2009); Dougal R. Munro (president, Holland & Sherry Inc.); Wendy Murray (sales and business development director, MYB Textiles); Brian Wilton (director, Scottish Tartans Authority); Brian Duffy (founder, Duffy Management and Investment Ltd.), moderator.
11:50 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Tech Styles: From Code to Couture. Michael Schmidt (wardrobing and jewelry designer) with Francis Bitonti (multidisciplinary designer and founder of Francis Bitonti Studio)
12:30 – 1:15 p.m. From Working Wear and Rabble Rousers to Fashion Icon: Jeans and Denim, a Panel Discussion. Matt Baldwin (founder and designer, Baldwin Denim and Collection); Rebecca Duval (vice president equity analyst for the retail sector, BlueFin Research Partners);  Maurice Malone (founder, Williamsburg Garment Company [WGC], based in Brooklyn, NY); Michael Morrell; Arnold J. Karr (senior editor, Women’s Wear Daily [WWD]), moderator.
1:15 – 2:30 p.m. Lunch (on your own) and book signings
2:30 – 3:10 p.m. Fashion 4 Development: Giving Back Is the New Luxury. Jeanine Ballone (senior director, research and innovation, PVH Corporation, and president and founder, Zero to Hero Foundation); Chris Collins (model); Amir A. Dessal (founder and chairman, Global Partnerships Forum [GPF]), in conversation with Evie Evangelou (president and founder, Fashion 4 Development [F4D])
3:15 – 3:55 p.m. Project Gravitas: Reconceptualizing the Little
Black Dress – Every Woman Secure in Her Polished and Personalized Style.
Lisa Sun (founder & CEO, Project Gravitas)
4:00 – 5:00 p.m. Inside from the Outside: Perspectives on the Extraordinary. Miguel Adrover (designer)